She also has impeccable taste. So when she decided on a beautiful boutique hotel over my house for her 40th birthday party – it wasn’t so much of a surprise. I mean, I aim to make my house nice and all – but a guesthouse will always win. In December last year, we celebrated her big birthday and spent the night in one of the most beautiful boutique hotels I’ve ever been in.
The Light House Boutique Suites, contrary to its name, is in Paarl and nowhere near a lighthouse. It’s a beautiful guesthouse that reminds me of the Hamptons – had I ever visited the Hamptons. The house was renovated and tastefully decorated with special attention given to absolutely every last detail. It rivals the pages of a decor magazine and has the warmth of a loving home thanks to its hosts. It is a peaceful, luxurious sanctuary with immaculate gardens and a beautiful pool, thoughtfully and uniquely decorated rooms (yes, I spied them all) and opulent finishes throughout the sitting, reading and lounging spots in the house.
We stayed in the Mayfair room – ornate and luxuriously decorated, it boasted a giant king size bed (or just a normal king sized bed, but its such a luxury I have to say giant), a small settee, arm chairs and beautiful views. We could’ve just hung out in our room all day. At 16 weeks pregnant, I was very tempted.
Every detail is thoughtfully chosen and paired to make the room unique and gorgeous with no costs spared on ensuring the finishes are to a high standard.
Even the towels come wrapped like a present!
I love a turndown! In fact, I actually get excited by my turndown (and disappointed when there isn’t one. Honestly, I’ve been known to judge – silently – when there isn’t a turndown). The Light House has set the bar so high on the turndown experience for us – their turn down is hardly just a mint on the pillow and dimmed lights. Along with the standard, and the not standard turndown items – the highlight is a whole box dedicated especially to you! Filled with special treats, and tastefully presented. The thought that goes into every part of your experience in a stay here is exceptional.
We were there for a party – and while what a party it was (sober and all) – the day after (hangover free and all) delivered one of the most delicious breakfasts a girl could ask for when she can’t ask for eggs Benedict (those damn raw eggs).
Served outdoors beneath giant umbrellas, by the warmest hosts, we drank champagne (well…. you know), had platters of fruits and then a cooked-to-perfection hot breakfast.
While I could’ve stayed all day, or all weekend really with no intention of leaving, we sadly had to bid farewell to the most gorgeous guesthouse (and hosts) in Paarl with promises to return in the future for a longer stay. While some may say that holidaying local shouldn’t require 5 star overnights in towns an hour’s drive from your own, I really beg to differ. I’d also recommend booking in to the Light House with no intention to leave all weekend. Not to wine taste. Not to eat. Just stay here in this little oasis of luxury and soak it all in. It is… that good.
Its not what you think. As much as you may think I’m about to talk about hitting the festive season hard, dancing on a table and consuming bottles of champagne – I’m not. I am talking the holidays.. just not like that.
If I could choose between this:
I’d always choose the latter. In fact, I did. We honeymooned 7 years ago at Paradise Cove (the second pic) – a 67 room Boutique Hotel in Mauritius.
Earlier this year, we had booked to stay here (Zimbali Resort)
And due to a Presidential son’s wedding, and a few words with management, we landed up spending some time here (Zimbali Lodge)
which actually suited us way better. Less people, more personal service.
Boutique. Or Home in this instance.
I assumed everyone liked small and intimate, staff who recognise you, greet you by name and recall your evening tipple of choice and no schedule of daily activities like aqua yoga, or traditional dancers or tour buses of visitors arriving and departing daily.
I was apparently wrong. A good friend of mine and his wife seek out the Big. The hotel that offers yoga in the morning, evening entertainment, daily excursions, volleyball tournaments and an entertainment committee. I actually shudder at the idea. No really.
We are the complete opposite.
I am currently in the Maldives. After 7 years of wanting and dreaming of this destination – we took the plunge, said sod it to our bank balance, saved like mad, and booked it.
We’ve spent 4 nights at the 37 villa’d island of Makunudu. And currently spending 7 nights at the recently refurbished all-inclusive resort by Atmosphere – Oblu Helengeli.
Home, and Big. As I like to refer to them as.
I can’t be certain how we landed up with the large all inclusive resort, it seems really un-us… but, of course I actually do know. There was a really good deal on that put us in an over water bungalow during peak season at probably the same cost (no, at the same cost) as the beach bungalow. And actually, it’s only classed as a medium-sized resort with 116 villas, but still has the yoga and water aerobics schedule!
So big, or home? I think I still prefer the intimacy of a boutique resort, but that doesn’t mean you can’t work the system at the large resort to get the same sort of service. Mark has made friends with the barman, after lending him his iPhone for the day (which largely improved the music in the bar, so we actually won in this) and the result is great. Being served quickly plus drinks brought out to the beach for us etc. Our first lunch we were lucky enough to meet and chat to the chef, who now greets us personally every time he sees us. So too after making conversation with a couple of the ‘live action station’ chefs, means I also get to make up my own dishes (mostly without the chilli and cooked to well done – the joys of the impending motherhood).
While I think I’ll always choose the smaller guesthouse or hotel over the larger ones, I think it doesn’t only boil down to the size of the resort, but instead what the resort believes in that results in the experience you have. Oblu is brand new and while providing an ‘intro offer’ to get people to the island, they’re doing their very best to ensure their service makes it a memorable experience. The same can’t be said for every large hotel with an entertainment schedule, but its nice to know (and I’ll admit) that the larger ones aren’t as crappy as I originally thought they would be.
Exceptional experiences come from the people working at the resort or hotel and the service they offer you.
Plus the bathroom amenities. Cotton wool. Just give me some damn cotton wool.
I haven’t seen the Matrix. (I know, I know). But in the past week the red pill and the blue pill has been referenced in two other series I watch and it got me thinking.
Life. The red pill. The adventure.
The blue. The safe option.
Recently someone made me think about which pill it is that I always take. (They were definitely hinting that it was blue. They’re direct like that).
My gut said it wasn’t. My gut didn’t want to believe that I was a blue pill person. My gut thinks I’m a red pill person. That I take risks. That I have a seeking spirit. But clearly, these days my actions are telling people a different story to what my gut is telling me. Logical. Calculated. Risk-free.
Timeously, I also watched a tedtalk about making hard decisions (its worth watching, even if you think you’ve got all your shit together). It spoke about being the drifter. One who lets life happen to them, as opposed to making life happen. One who lets those in their life decide what and where to next.
I don’t want to be a drifter.
I don’t want to be the person who talks about going overseas, moving houses. Leaving their job, their boyfriend, their city. I don’t want to be the person who talks about starting a diet, about the sixpack they’ll one day have, the mammogram they’ll one day get. I want to be the person who books the damn flight.
And so I did.
After credit carding hundreds of thousands of rands to doctors over the past few years (and seriously, if you want to be rich in your next life – be a fertility doctor. Be a fertility scientist. Hell, be the fridge that houses the embryo for 6 days!) – I decided to credit card what I really wanted.
An epic trip I’ve been waiting 7 years for.
I’m going to the Maldives!
I’m also going to Sri Lanka, and as much as this part may seem less impressive than the Maldives – I’m equally excited about it. There will be surfing. There will be hiking. There will be waterfalls, beaches, yoga and God-willing, there will be a leopard sighting. There will be two weeks of backpacking, adventure-seeking, thrilling, risk-taking story making.
I was excited because as the name says, there was surely a leopard, a mountain and some game when they decided on the name of the lodge in Zululand Rhino Reserve. Turns out, the mountain (hill) behind the lodge’s name was Leopard Mountain and while the reserve has a few Leopard, they are still elusive and as impossible to track as… I don’t know… a unicorn.
Following our two nights in Hlululwe at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge, and mostly because of the individual plunge pools, we booked two nights here, in a reserve that barely features on google maps and to our knowledge, may have turned out to be one of those zoo type experiences (like a game reserve in the Western Cape I guess).
Zoo, it was not. A concessionary it was. We had no idea, and as we drove in it felt like we were driving onto someone’s farm. (We were). I was sure we had made a fail of a booking and was already craving that warm facecloth we had left behind at Rhino Ridge. Antelope was in abundance, Nyala, Kudu and ofcourse all the springboks in clear visibility for any World Cup Rugby supporter to stop moaning (that’s lame, sorry).
We arrived to a (very) friendly hostess, who welcomed us, showed us around to the lounge and lapa, and chatted to us a bit about the lodge and our stay (but no facecloths. I may have a thing for the facecloths). We were shown to our room after we had parked our car out of sight for our two night stay.
For the point of comparison, which its impossible to avoid given we’d just stayed somewhere else – the villas, while boasting their own plunge pool and views for days, are much smaller than the villa and less, umm… well-decorated (perhaps I could say slightly dated?), than what we’d just come from. With the stone work of the rondavel on display, and some typical ‘We’re in Africa’ type decor (not a nguni hide in sight, but rather some leopard print type stuff) – I had already anticipated our stay wasn’t going to be all about the decor (and that it wouldn’t be to my taste) thanks to their website. We were here for the bush anyway… and maybe some sun, food and wine. Its still a holiday after all.
What we were soon to discover, is exactly how Leopard Mountain Game Lodge is ranked number 1 on tripadvisor (as we’ve established its not for the accommodation – although the huge king size bed and Charlotte Rhys is hardly something to scoff at. I’m not so spoilt!). The breakfasts, lunches, dinners and drives couldn’t be further from the experience we had just had.
Let’s start with lunch, as we’d arrived especially in time for it. We had selected from the menu earlier during our check in and orientation and it was delivered as a picnic to our room. We snacked on our balcony overlooking a deep valley of trees and a river. It was a picture of the 20 year drought they’d told us about… Except… everything was green. Perhaps I’m not sure what drought means really in bush terms.
Anyway, figs and cheeses, salmon, fresh bread and a sweet treat. Casual and make-it-yourself, but nothing less than what you need. A nap (because that’s what you do, every day… no matter what, in the bush) later and I was up and ready for our evening game drive. But first: sweeeeeeeeeeets.
An afternoon tea that is hardly necessary, given that we had just had an enormous breakfast, followed by lunch and nap, but all the same the treat table beckoned. Coffee, speckled eggs (fake ones) and lemon meringue tart later, I had met Alden who was our field guide for our stay. I say I, as apparently my over eager self needs to go on every single game drive, while my over worked husband, finds extending naps into afternoon sleeps truly blissful.
While the first drive (as it was an evening drive) was fairly uneventful (oh how I wished it wasn’t to make it worth dragging myself out of mentioned king size bed, next to napping husband) – Alden became a character that completed our stay. Passion is the word that springs to mind, and he inspired us with genuine knowledge, enthusiasm and love for the bush. A conservationist, with a career plan, he made it his mission to ensure a thoroughly fantastic experience. While we never got to see Ellies during our stay (a most bizarre request from me consider just a week earlier I was petrified to see one again), it was due to no lack of trying by Alden. He jumped out of the vehicle to show us spoor or to listen, watch the antelope, and feel where the hunting lionness was. He’s either a phenomenal field guide, or an even better actor – but he had us all in suspense that we were about to find her. We didn’t. But we really almost did.
Unlike our previous place, many guests came straight off the vehicle and to the boma for dinner. Feeling windswept, I made a dash for our room (accompanied by an unarmed, torch-baring hostess – still unsure what she’d actually achieve if we saw that elusive leopard) to freshen up. Evenings at Leopard Mountain are less about that cliff top view, and more about the boma. Starting with a cellar visit, and while Alden isn’t anywhere as clued up on wine as he is on the animals, luckily he doesn’t have to be and our host who made an appearance on our second evening was. Or at least, he was happy to listen to me ramble about wines of the Swartland, Stellenbosch and Robertson. A four course meal with special attention (on our first night at least) to my (ridiculous) ‘allergies’. The food was remarkable. It was wholesome, and while maybe it didn’t have ‘jus’ (or maybe it did) – being outdoors, beneath the stars and with a roaring fire (that my husband jumped up to add wood to) didn’t need fancy names or food, even though it was.
Where my evening game drive took to something resembling a Brazilian jungle making multiple river crossings, the storms from the other night finally made the river flow, which also forced us to remain on the land to the North for the rest of our stay. The land, the 23 000 hectares which is Zululand Rhino Reserve, consists on neighbouring properties who have agreed to drop their fences to encourage the wildlife to roam. Its all about relationship management Alden mentioned to us as he casually off roads at some points in search of my Ellies, and remains very firmly on the road during our lion sighting on both days. It depends on who’s land we’re on, whether we offroad. I can’t help but think if we were all so respectful of each other’s beliefs and wishes what a happy world we’d live in.
Breakfast is enjoyed communally, everyone who is a part of Alden’s adventures sits together and shares stories together. Alden included. Its the feeling of family. There is nothing fancy. The food, while plentiful and tasty, is served in unpretentious dishes by relaxed and happy staff. The decor in the breakfast room is like a home farm kitchen would be (pine and riempie chairs) but its not about that. Its about the story Alden is sharing with us, about how he climbed a mountain alone to find the leopard. Those damn elusive leopards.
A waterhole visit follows breakfast immediately, and Mark being the only smart one, brings his book a long “just in case”. He has clearly done this before. It is little wonder the necessity of the afternoon nap by the time we are home again and served another picnic lunch (didn’t we just eat?)
The semi-privacy of the reserve makes for excellent sightings, and the size relative to the number of lodges means that those sightings aren’t congested. There is plenty of game, all lovingly respected by excellent guides.
Mochachocarula (bush ranger) specials at sunrise, G&T’s (with lemon) at sunset. Stories of stars, of animals, of sightings. Heavenly food and warm hospitality make Leopard Mountain Lodge unique. It’s cosy and homely. There are no modern amenities and uncomfortable silences or quiet ‘ambient’ music. It is feel good. And you do.
I don’t do a lot in black in white. Quite the contrary really. I’m all about colours. But somewhere along the line, I fell in love with the raw beauty and simplicity of photos of Africa in black and white.
Here are my highlights from our recent KZN Bush holiday. In Black and white.
Karen wasn’t the first person to ask me this. And I’m still not entirely sure how to answer it.
On our recent (and amazing) holiday to the KZN bush, we stayed at two lodges for two days each. Mostly because I wanted to book the one, and Mark wanted to book the other. So instead of three days at one, we opted for 2 days at each.
Both are graded 4 stars, and both use the word ‘luxury‘ on their home page of their websites.
But Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge and Leopard Mountain Game Lodge couldn’t be further apart in experiences.
Meals, game drives and accommodation. A 4 star rating isn’t enough to choose a lodge when two lodges can be so uniquely different and can vastly appeal to different people. I still don’t know the answer for Karen. But… here’s a summary of both.
Rhino Ridge is based in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, and as the name describes, the first ‘private’ lodge overlooks a ridge within the 96000ha reserve, where the first rhino’s were (re)discovered after they thought extinct (pretty cool fact). To be fair, the lodge itself was built on bordering farm land that was bought from the community. The park’s borders were extended to engulf the lodge, and the community were offered jobs and own 50% of the lodge (that % fact should really be confirmed). The lodge is brand spanking new. In fact, when we booked – there were only artist impressions to go off. But the reality didn’t disappoint.
4 room types are on offer, and we opted for the Luxury Bush Villa over the Safari Room, for the price difference (R5900 and R4280 per night respectively according to website) I think it was worth it. The Honeymoon Villa (of which there are two) have their own private plunge pools, and if we were on honeymoon perhaps would’ve been worth it.
We had Villa 10, which was set a little back from the ridge, which disappointingly didn’t have the view – it proved a welcome thing when the biggest storm they’ve had in years hit us on night 2. If I could choose, however, I’d say Villa 5 is the best. All the villas are rather close together, and without a lot of vegetation grown back yet between villas, there’s not as much privacy as you’d like.
The villas are beautifully and tastefully decorated (ala Weylandts, and resembling how I hope my lounge will one day appear), the floors adorned with many nguni hides (slight sadness to think that those nguni’s were probably the true land owners before they lodge was built). The freestanding bath (surrounded by windows that unfortunately allow passerby’s, if there are any, to sneak a peak – grow back dear vegetation!!) and an open shower with a door onto the deck (which I couldn’t quite see the point of, but kind of cool all the same). The double-sided fireplace, that we put to use only because we could and there was a storm going on (and not because it was cold. At all) sat neatly between the ‘lounge’ area of the suite and the bathroom (with a hide a bath mat. yes really).
Arrival at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge (after a hell-raising hill, potholes included, in a rented car) is like finding that little oasis in the dry desert. One that has refreshing facecloths and a cold drink as well. We handed our keys over and the team ensured our bags reached our room and our car was parked safely away for the two days we were there. Lunch was a feast (I’m always sceptical of buffets) but the food was fresh and interesting. And most divinely, different to day 2’s lunch).
Due to an extended but amazing nap (post all-night party the previous night), we skipped our first game but popped down to the bar for a drink and to advise what time we wanted to be collected for dinner as there’s no phone in your room, and in true ‘bush lodge’ style you aren’t ‘allowed’ to walk between lodge and villa alone (although I’m never sure exactly what a guy with a torch is going to do if we were to come across a big cat or similar). Later we joined everyone at the bar (where we were grateful to not overhear any stories of wild dog, hyena or cat sightings) and briefly chatted to our game ranger (known as field guides these days) named Lindi. Different from the only other ‘private game lodge’ experience we had where the guides rotated, Lindi was assigned to us for the duration of the stay. Also different to other lodge experiences, was the awkward moment the following morning when we returned from our game drive where there were two tables set up for breakfast – one for 5 and one for two (There were 6 of us on the drive, in pairs of two). I think Lindi was supposed to join two couples, but it all went a bit pear-shaped and we landed up dining with another couple. Which was weird. But hey.
Hluhluwe is public reserve with ‘private’ vehicles (which meant the opposite of what I thought it did). Gratefully we were in a landrover (or equivalent) as I never knew an African pothole until I ventured through Hluhluwe-Imfolozi park in a rental car. In 96 000ha, the game viewing experience is hugely different from a private game reserve, where every vehicle is from a lodge, has a radio, and spotting is a collective effort.
Private vehicles on our tail – they think we know something. We don’t (as there are very few lodge vehicles and they don’t work together as they do in a private reserve). It’s like a self-drive bush break, with no off-roading allowed and the same chance of seeing something, with the bonus of not having to decide left or right, being a little bit higher up and some knowledge being shared from the lady in khaki.
We were in luck on our first drive. 4 out of 5! Thanks for coming. Granted the lion were so far in the thick of the woods that it was like looking at one of those weird 3D posters and claiming “I see it!” when in actual fact – you only sort of had maybe a little outline of something. The kill however, a baby giraffe, was very clearly visible from the road, and while its the circle of life – seeing his mom walking around looking for him was a bit heart breaking.
An elephant herd, drinking at the almost dry river. A chilled buffalo herd, that renewed any misconceptions I had of them, and two white rhinos en route back to our lodge. Not a bad start I have to admit.
As you do on bush holidays in KZN, hours between the feast of breakfast, the feast of lunch and the evening game drive (which is really an afternoon drive as noone is allowed in the park at night – its a poaching thing) you catch a tan.
While the pool faces the direction of the view, its in the opposite direction of the sunshine – but not standing in the way of this capetonian’s quest for a tan some maneouvering later and I was well positioned to catch a few rays before we headed out again.
I always find night time drives a bit of a let down. (don’t shoot me all you bush loving crazies. Wait till I tell you about how much I like birds). I don’t have much night vision, and the most exciting part of the evening (besides the bark spider) was the storm clouds and the impending lightning. And oh, that storm.
To say I’ve been looking forward to lightning storm is an understatement. I just always thought I’d find it in Joburg. But when we woke up that day, we knew it was approaching and that we were in for a treat. The lodge itself, probably wasn’t ready for it. Remember when I said I was grateful that we were up on the hill? That was mostly because we avoided the landslide of mud that 80mm of rain in one evening caused, that flowed under the doors and into the rooms closer to the edge. 8cm in ONE night. This is a lot. (They tell me. I have no idea what a lot of rain is). It was exhilarating and exciting and wild (in the true ‘bush’ sense of the word). I considered the animals out there, and if for one night those little springbuck knew they’d be safe from the hunt.
Dinner (pre-storm, post-bark spider) was fantastic again. Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge, while the prices may feel high per night, the prices of drinks are completely reasonable. And better still, they don’t charge corkage. Hello bottle of Spier 21 Gables Chenin we’d been saving for.. you know, saving (need to do less of that, and more the actual drinking the wines in the winerack).
All the food at Rhino Ridge was special and carefully designed and presented. The service is a bit of a mishmash. Polite, presentable and courteous, but not experienced to know how a G&T is made (the lemon! don’t forget the lemon!) due to the team being, quite literally, straight from the bush. Its exciting to know that this lodge is supporting them, and equipping this truly local community with skills that will afford them more opportunities in the future.
Lowlights: inexperienced bartenders and waitresses take some patience, G&T’s without lemon on game drives (ewww), lack of vegetation (resulting mudslides or neighbours seeing me in the shower). Everything is teething issues, so in 6 months to a year, it should be an amazing visit. Highlights: Arriving back at the lodge to refreshing towels, the excellent food, the beautiful decor and open plan bathroom. The goodie bag on departure.